Alpine ascent of the East pillar of Lønahorgi
This trip provides a superb, yet demanding climb to the top of Lønahorgi. We follow the steepest and most direct route to the top, by climbing the very distinct feature known as the East pillar of Lønahorgi.
The trip starts by following the same approach as for trip alternative A - the cultural hike to Årdalen (details above). As soon as we enter the prominent, amphitheatre-shaped valley of Årdalen, we head towards the bottom of the pillar leading steeply towards the summit ridge of Lønahorgi. We cross a couple of rivers and some lush grazing areas, before the terrain steepens and we reach the base of the climb. We put on our harnesses, shoes and helmets, and prepare for the climb. After roping up, our guide will lead you safely up the 5 pitches (250 metres) or so of rock climbing. The route is relatively easy, by climbing standards, rated at around French grade 4c, Norwegian grade 4+. The climb follows crack systems, dihedrals and gullies close to the arête of the pillar, which means you're in a spectacular position most of the way up.
After topping out, we can continue rope-less on the summit ridge. There is still around 400 meters of vertical gain towards the top of Lønahorgi, and we'll probably have to cover some patches of snow. From the top, we are allowed a good rest and an amazing 360-degree view of far-away mountains and glaciers.
We return either by the curving ridge towards Svartahorgi (1037) to the north, or by the gravel road leading to Voss Resort and the new Gondola at Hanguren. Both of these options are about the same distance, but the gravel road is technically easier and faster. It is also possible to return by abseiling off the climbing route, by using bolted anchors. It's 5 abseils to the bottom of the climb, a splendid short-cut.
Congratulations to you after completing this climb - a uniqe trip in this region!
Trip details for the East pillar climb of Lønahorgi:
- Estimated total distance: 15-17 km, depending on our ambition level.
- Estimated total duration: 8 hours, excluding bus transport.
- Total ascent: 1400 metres.
- Trip grading: Demanding. Rugged terrain above the treeline. Risk of inclement weather. Climbing up to French grade 4c/Norwegian grade 4+.
- Family friendly: No. Lower age limit: 15 years old.
- Accessible by public transportation: Yes.
Season and availability
Can be booked daily from June 15 to October 1.
During the busiest weeks of summer, we might not have available guides every day. Please don’t hesitate to send us an email on [email protected] if it looks like the trip is unavailable online. We’ll try to find a solution for you.
Reasons to go:
You won't find any other climbing routes on any other peak in the Voss region. As such, this climb is quite unique. This route covers a wide variety of terrain types and challenges. The trip starts off easily, gradually increasing in difficulty. We pass lovely waterfalls, grazing grounds and open pine forests on the approach.
The climb follows an obvious and esthetic line on the East pillar. The climbing itself is never truly difficult, but offer a fine, safe and spectacular route towards the top of Lønahorgi.
This is a demanding trip in steep terrain. Combining a technically difficult hiking route and several pitches of rock climbing, this is a challenge only suitable for the fit and experienced hikers.
Necessary equipment for the hike:
- Sturdy hiking shoes or hiking boots.
- Waterproof clothing (shell layer).
- Small rucksack (20 litres).
- An extra t-shirt and an extra, warm sweater.
- Beanie or knit cap.
- Gloves or mittens
- Sunglasses and sun lotion
- Some snacks and a packed lunch and a water bottle.
- Trekking poles are recommended.
- Climbing harness, helmet, belay device, screw gate biners. Participants are asked to bring their own climbing shoes. The other climbing equipment can be rented without extra costs.
Meeting point and practical details:
Meet at our guide's office on the first floor of Tre Brør Café near the town square at 8.30 a.m. We drive to the starting point of our hike by car.
We’ll be back at Voss around 7 p.m.
Prices and terms:
The price is NOK 2500 + NOK 1500 per person.
Group sizes: 1-2 participants.
Included in the price:
- An experienced, multilingual guide during your trip.
- All necessary safety equipment.
- Access to extra clothing and trekking poles free of charge.
- Rental of all necessary climbing equipment, except shoes.
- Transportation by car to the starting point and back.
Not included in the price:
- Transportation to of from Voss.
How do I get there with a private car?
From Voss, follow E16 north towards Løno, around 9 km. At the Smalahovetunet exit (signs), exit left and follow the steep, gravel road up to the parking near Staup.
A note on responsible travel and sustainability:
Wild Voss make a continuous effort in reducing the ecological impact of our trips and activities. We aim to follow the latest GSTC criteria for sustainable travel. As a participant on one of our trips, you should know the following:
- We follow the Leave No Trace principles.
- We make use of zero-emission infrastructure whenever possible.
- Our trips are on foot, skis or snowshoes, causing no emissions and limiting the impact on nature and eco systems.
- Our guide will share knowledge about local culture, sites we visit and local customs.
- We support responsible local businesses.
- Your guide will advocate low-impact travel and raise the participants’ awareness of local wildlife.
- We abide by laws and regulations concerning travel in free nature and cultural landscape.
- We seek to minimize waste, and choose products and packaging with long life spans.